No blossoms and no moon,
and he is drinking sake
all alone!
Temple bells die out.
The fragrant blossoms remain.
A perfect evening!
– Matsuo Basho (1644 –1694)
“One (sultry) night in Bangkok”, a friend of mine who was vacationing in Thailand around the same time I lived there treated me to dinner at the lovely Salatip, one of the outdoor restaurants at the famous 5-star Shangrila hotel.
The Salatip is a Thai pavilion of solid teak, right out of a fairytale. You can dine inside, among carved pillars aglimmer with gold leaf, or outside on the lawns, with romantic views of the snaking Chao Phraya river, where so much of Bangkok life unfolds… We chose to sit outside in the velvety evening air.
A troupe of Thai classical dancers floated up to us like celestial envoys, and performed right beside our table. I had the distinct impression that Hanuman, the Monkey King, was watching me through the eye-holes in his carved mask, wondering how much I’d paid for a bland imitation of somtam (papaya salad – the best versions of which are sold cheaply on every street corner). Instead of eating, I was wondering how long this dancer had studied his art – probably since childhood (oh, to be that flexible again!)
Some people love the royal treatment: armies of demure waitresses, a Thai corps de ballet. But it made me feel like some West Indies Company captain on (nasty) colonial business, lording it over the heathen Siamese. And it made the food about as memorable as a tired combo from my local Flip Toss & Thai. I wish I could remember the food, but my taste buds only registered the equally celestial prices that my friend, bless his generous heart, would shortly be paying.
But… how I remember the flowers!
Earlier, walking up to the Shangrila’s lobby to meet my friend, I’d passed en entire wall of orchids, more than I’d ever seen in one spot (no pictures, alas), and a wave of indefinable fragrance had almost knocked me over.
There are as many orchid scents as there are orchid species (some 1,000 in Thailand). Some, I’ve heard, suggest rotten meat. But at the Shangrila, only the best: my friend met me in the lobby as I emerged in a daze from a cloud of delicate citrus edged with vanilla. Or was it sun-warmed peach and layers of coconut? Intoxicating.
After some time in Bangkok, I noticed similar massive displays of orchids. It is sheer sensory overload: alien colours, haunting fragrance, shivers. Our winter-numbed Western nostrils and skin never quite recover, and neither do we. After this olfactory seduction, anything seems possible: cheap Rolexes, cross-cultural love…
But back to the subject of haikus. What about the Japanese flower aesthetic? As far as I can tell, it’s the total opposite of the South-East Asian love of riotous colours and gold dust. With the Japanese, it’s all zen restraint and rigorous minimalism (disclaimer: what follows is a bald generalization, and completely true):
A delicate arc of white orchids, set off by the moody obsidian of an antique hand-thrown vase, fronting a cool, black-on-white haiku calligraphy. Naturally, the theme of the haiku matches the season in progress, and the orchid looks as if it grew there spontaneously, as from a mist-shrouded cliff (otherwise, you’re just playing at being Japanese!).
Orchid, stoic vase, spare haiku… in an otherwise empty. Empty. Room.
You could sit here forever in your neat kimono, pondering the perfection of the Tao, your knees and ankles screaming in agony from the highly unzen torture of the Japanese seiza sitting posture (seizure posture, as I like to call it). When times get tough, the Japanese like to gruffly tootle: “Gam-ba-re!” — Keep at it, soldier on! (the Thais: “Mai pen rai!” — nevermind, no big deal).
Yet orchids are equally happy in a zen pavilion as they are in a gilded restaurant. Nature is perfect, and above our human decorating obsessions! Can my haiku do justice to orchids… is what’s far less certain.
So what’s a haiku? Technically: unrhymed verse containing three lines of 5, 7, and 5 syllables respectively, in which the last line states the subject of the poem. Sounds easy compared to iambic pentametre (see my last post), but the haiku’s apparent simplicity is its trickiest aspect.
Classical haikus are not always in perfect 5-7-5 because the original, in Japanese, quite naturally loses its Japanese “syllables” once it’s translated into another language. But in the spirit of the novice crouching before the classics and trying to imitate time-honoured forms (minus the seizures!), I’ve stuck to the 5-7-5 in my burnt offerings below. If they fail miserably, at least they’ll get points for being in 5-7-5.
Here’s a good condensed definition of the elusive haiku:
“Since the poem is short, it comes with a bang! The themes also vary (…) but all stay within the norms of nature. A traditional haiku contains a kigo (season word) symbolizing the season in which the poem is set.” (Gary R. Hess).
I do love the “nature requirement”, especially in this age of “nature deficit”! And there’s undeniable pleasure in trying to squeeze maximum ‘bang’ out of few words — which I’ve spectacularly failed at, already, thanks to this very long post!
One last thing: I feel the haiku is where the world of orchids and the world of poetry really enter one another’s houses, to use an astrological expression. I started this post with a couple of haikus by one of the Japanese masters of the form, Matsuo Basho. I love how he pairs flowers with wine and temples — two of my favourite, though regretably uncombinable, pleasures in life (an orchid & wine appreciation party inside a temple… wouldn’t that be fun?)
Having read the master, you are now ready to chuckle indulgently at my attempts. Honour me with your honest critiques, I beg you. Depending on how unforgiving you are, I will either say Gambare! or… Mai pen rai!
Without further ado (save a grateful nod to Javeed Patel’s wonderful photo), here goes.
______________________________________________________________
White orchids, winter.
In-between, a pane of glass—
how did snow get in?
Change is slow to come,
each day a blur, work and sleep.
Then suddenly, blooms.
______________________________________________________________









